2019 - OCTOBER - WHAT'S OLDE / WHAT'S NEW & THE PREQUELS #13 - October, 2010

Much of early October was spent anticipating, preparing for and enduring Nor'Easters.  The first was a 3-day, windy rain event, but not much more.  Perhaps that made us just a bit complacent when the second rolled in with winds between 70 to 100 mph, causing major power outages.  Even with an automatic generator, 3 days of watching the needle drop on the propane supply did nothing to improve our moods.  We encouraged both our scheduled weekend guests to cancel their reservations and also turned away a handful of people who lost their reservations due to power outages as well.  As luck would have it, our only damage was a lawn chair that took the brunt of a falling branch that covered the length of the Cottage patio.  The many small limbs pruned by the storms are easy enough to deal with, as well as all the leaves which got a rude shove from the winds before they were ready.  And, now we end the month with another bout of rain and wind, which cancelled most of the ferries to the islands and only ripped a door off the garden shed.  It's been an angry, wet month.

Thanks to some wonderful historians, and the local papers who publish their findings, I'm always getting surprises about the adopted area I now call home.  Growing up in Virginia, no child left elementary school without an introduction to Captain John Smith, who commanded the first voyage to Jamestown, Virginia in 1607.  What our history books neglected to mention was that he was feared by many of the natives because he was known to enter villages and put guns to the heads of chiefs demanding food and supplies.  Enter the lovely Pocahontas, daughter of Chief Powhatan [and future Disney star], who saved him from execution by famously placing her head over his neck after her father had captured him. Smith went on to became one of the Jamestown Colony's leaders and was instrumental in exploring and mapping the Chesapeake Bay.  After being injured in a gunpowder explosion, he returned to England for treatment, never to set foot in Virginia again.  THE END.  Well, at least in Virginia schools.  

We now fast forward seven years to 1614.  Cap'n Smith had become a strong advocate for English colonization of America and he was now well enough to make a second voyage, funded by a group of London merchants to explore the northeastern coast of America from Maine to as far south as what is known now as Cape Cod.  To this date, his map and description of the area is the most accurate that has been produced.  On board was a Patuxet tribesman named Squanto, who was best known as a friendly, English speaking liaison between the natives of Southern New England and the English explorers.  Previously kidnapped by one of Captain Smith's associates named Thomas Hunt, he was brought to Spain and sold to local monks, but found his way to London where he was later able to join Smith's party to return to his home on Cape Cod Bay.  Sadly, his whole tribe had been wiped out by then.  While Captain Smith's choice of the name Cape James didn't make the cut, he was at least the first to call the region New England and to name the area where the Pilgrims later settled 'Plimouth'.  Ironically, when the Mayflower voyage was being organized, the Pilgrim Separatists felt that despite Smith's credentials for the job, his personality was too dominant for their low-key approach, and he was passed over for Myles Standish, using the books and map they'd purchased from Smith.  He later wrote that "the Pilgrim's pride and contempt of authority would not allow them to be guided by a commanding person."  [With thanks to Ron Peterson and the Cape Codder Weekly.]

On the subject of Massachusetts natives, the town of Mashpee was the first on Cape Cod to celebrate Indigenous Peoples' Day this year, and Provincetown will be recognizing it in 2020, as opposed to Columbus Day.   

Sagamore Bridge over the Cape Cod Canal

When the Cape Cod Canal was finished in 1914, Cape Cod became an island, necessitating bridges for those without boats to come and go.  Originally, these were drawbridges in the 1920's, and traffic jams were the reason they were replaced with the current elevated Bourne and Sagamore bridges.  85 years later, they're now determined to be functionally obsolete by the Army Corps of Engineers.  After much study and debate, it has finally been decided to replace each with new 6-lane ones, rather than continue to repair the old ones.  Part of the reason is because they fall into the category of being emergency evacuation routes, and logistically it also makes sense to be able to use the old ones while the new ones are being constructed.  But don't adjust your weekend driving times, yet.  The new ones are not likely to be finished until 2040.    
Cape Cod Chronicles #13 – October, 2010

Autumn paints Fort Hill 

Just as September began with guests from VA, so did October.  Friends from Arlington, who attended a wedding in NH, brought the parents of the groom with them for a relaxing post-wedding chill-out.  Unfortunately, our Northern Virginians also brought a 5-day monsoon with them, so touring was foggy, gray and wet.  I think we were more disappointed than they were since we love showing off favorite places on our sandbar.  With the clearing of the rain came delicious, cool breezes and an end to the occasional guilty air conditioning usage.

Surprisingly, as much as I looked forward to fewer people in the Fall and a slower pace, there is a trade-off.  Summer brings interesting guests, more income, and our musician friends play more gigs.  But, I’m also looking forward to less traffic, my favorite cool seasons and time to work on creative projects I’ve set aside. Also, yet to be discovered is what our new B&B can look forward to for off-season business.  After some research, I determined that though our booking agents did a great job for the summer, they were possibly a little out of touch with their suggested off-season rates.  We decided to make them more competitive and within the week received the first booking we’d had since Labor Day.  It felt great, and Martine and Serge, on a weekend getaway from Boston, vowed to be back again, despite the plumbing emergency that prevented them from staying in their chosen room the first night.  We were challenged with an innkeeper’s nightmare of how to quell water flowing uncontrollably from the water heater in their room, and the terror that comes with knowing that their arrival was imminent.  Luckily, our Studio was also available, though it was promised to our friends’ son and his girlfriend from Hawaii for the following evening. Martine and Serge were good sports about switching rooms for the night until the plumber could come the next morning.  But first, we had to remove all the food and flowers that our friends had left in the Studio for their son, and switch the food I’d stocked in the Cottage for our guests.  It’s one of those times you know will be fodder for humorous stories in the future, but at the time, makes you feel like an octopus with an abnormal supply of adrenaline.

Though Martine and Serge were unaware of the significance of the weekend they chose to come, they were excited to learn that they’d arrived on the eve of the annual Wellfleet Oysterfest.  Wellfleet, the next town north of us is known far and wide for the quality of its oysters.  The little town fills up with locals and visitors to celebrate and sample this natural resource.  Local craftsmen display their wares under tents flapping in the stiff sea breezes, bands play, there are oyster shucking contests, cooking classes and of course, long lines to sample seafood of all kinds.  Rickshaws peddled by strong, young thighs and school buses shuttle the crowds from point to point, but it was a perfect Fall day for strolling, too.  For my money, I enjoyed seeing the 38 pound, 200 year old lobster, now stuffed and under plexiglass.  At our kitchen window Sunday night, I noted the steady stream of Oysterfest-ers’ tail lights driving off-Cape in the pitch black, but no headlights approaching, another reminder of the shrinking winter population.  

Before the end of the week we received another request for a room via airbnb.com, our newest online booking aid.  Nola & Bill, an Australian couple on their 3^rd week of travel, were making us their last stop after San Francisco, Washington D.C., Vermont, Maine and Boston, before a week in New York City and then home to Perth.  Upon seeing the Cape for their first time, they decided to extend their 3-night reservation to 6.  This involved returning their rental car to Boston after 3 days and taking a bus back, but Bill said the tree swing looked very inviting and they loved the prospect of having walking trails nearby and the availability of bikes, so we volunteered to pick them up in Hyannis from the bus station and help them get around as necessary.  The first evening, we invited them to join us at a local Orleans Café called The Lost Dog, where Chandler’s Philharmonic Band was playing that night.  Over Shrimp Scampi Pizza, Chandler won over 2 new fans.  The following evening, we showed them our favorite store in Chatham and they treated us to dinner at the Squire, where we indulged in our favorite, Mussels Marinara.  Perhaps there is a fine line between being an accommodating innkeeper and going on vacation with your guests, but they were such a fun couple, we made that exception.  We’ve since received a booking for Thanksgiving from a CT family, and one for New Year’s from a couple from a tiny island in the West Indies.  It’s good to be back on track. 

Knowing that Fall colors might not be as prevalent near salt water, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the growing splashes of oranges, reds and golds along my drives.  Cape Codders are serious gardeners and whether they are native, or cultivated, there are plenty of maples and other colorful varieties to provide a respectable and satisfying amount of leaf-peeping.  I’m also very happy that little cans of pumpkin are reappearing on the grocery shelves after last years disastrous flooding of the crop.  I’ve missed my pumpkin muffins all summer, but Autumn without pumpkin pie would be just too sad to consider. 

Sometimes when our friend, Ray, pulls in his lobster pots, he's also caught stone crabs, which he can’t sell.  We became the beneficiaries of some of his last catch recently and I learned the fine and tedious art of crab picking.  I did get better enough after some practice to consider doing it again, but most of all, I learned to never again complain about the high cost of crabmeat. 

On October 23^rd we turned the furnace on to take the chill off the morning for the first time this season, but I quickly found out that there are just as many false starts here as there are in VA.  I’ve learned to put summer clothing away in phases, so as not to be caught short for something to wear when the next warm spell hits.  Blankets are pulled out of trunks and piled on the bed only to be stuffed away again.  Freeze warnings yield to Spring-like conditions and the feeling of déjà vu.  
      

The Critter Report has been on hold for most of the summer, as there seemed to be a respite from them.  However, a very muscular stud of a squirrel discovered our feeders last week and when he invited a friend, it was time to put the traps back in action.  I’ve yet to trap him, but I’ve now added 2 possums (Marty Marsupial, Jr. & Sr.), 6 furry, brown, nameless mice, and a couple of very indignant sparrows to the list.  With the exception of the birds, who receive heartfelt apologies along with their freedom, the others are taken across the street to the edge of the salt marshes and given a stern warning.

On my last walk through Fort Hill, I was surprised to find that the fields of nose-high wildflowers had been given their annual Fall haircut.  They’ve been replaced by the designs of the mowers on rolling, green hills, now devoid of their cover for the wildlife that call it their summer home.  There are still plenty of woods for sheltering critters from the hawks and coyotes, and the hills are now ready for sleds and toboggans.   

Post-Oysterfest, the local entertainment turns to more family oriented activities such as, haunted houses, rummage sales, pot luck dinners, wine and book club nights, art exhibitions, 5K races for charities, senior dance classes, and new plays to attend at the theatres.  But, stay tuned for November’s annual Eastham Turnip Festival which in the past has included turnip bowling, Mr. Turnip Head contests and of course, turnip recipe cook-offs. 
   

Our first Eastham Halloween came with the realization that there are no trick-or-treaters in the neighborhood, so it was a quiet night after a day of surprises.  Our morning began with a rare trip across the bridge to Wareham to snap up a good deal on a bed liner for Ron’s truck.  While we were so far from our end of the Cape, we decided to take advantage of the beautiful day and stop in the town of Sandwich, where we had scones and crumpets at Dunbar’s Tea House and then visited the Sandwich Glass Museum, where we saw a demonstration of glass blowing.  Both are sites we can now recommend to our B&B guests from experience, rather than just a brochure.  With that lovely day, the winds shifting back from the North and the return of the silk camisole under my sweater, our October came to a close.

2019 - SEPTEMBER -Just Like Magic & THE PREQUELS #12 - September, 2010

The sun sets on another summer season at First Encounter Beach

And, just like magic...  

On the last week of August it's as if the plugs gets pulled and much of the traffic drains off of Cape Cod, over the bridge into highway tributaries back from where it came.  Huge weather fronts start to rudely shove the heat and humidity out to sea making room for cooler, dry air from Canada to trickle in to refresh and energize.  Store displays of chrysanthemums and asters replace the once bright annuals, which are looking pretty spent, and it's on to pumpkins and haystacks and scoring the perennial markdowns to tuck into the garden for next Spring's surprises. Now come the retirees, who have waited all summer for this sweet spot of quiet beaches, gentle breezes, store inventory on clearance and the restorative peace and beauty that is Cape Cod all the rest of the year.   

The Sharktivity phone app was busy this summer.

The summer of 2019 was all about the sharks.  New educational signs were posted at every beach, the Sharktivity app for phones was very active alerting people to shark sitings, shark images were on paraphernalia of all kinds for sale, some in better taste than others, and there was the question everyone was asking,"has the increase in shark sitings affected reservations?" Speaking for ourselves, we'd have to say no, our bookings weren't down at all, in fact many guests were eager to know where they could go to see sharks and seals.  But though there were numerous sitings, we had no casualties this year despite the Atlantic White Shark Conservatory spotting over 160 this summer and tagging an additional 19.  

Will he, or won't he?

While people on Nauset Light beach in Eastham were busy taking pictures of some black fins flapping around in the water, I grabbed this moment of indecision about what sea creature it was, and if the surfer would take the chance.  Moments later, he walked by and sheepishly said he'd cut his foot and didn't want to go in the water smelling of blood.  Sounded like a smart choice to me, although we'd pretty much decided they were seals by that time.  Nevertheless, altogether now...what are sharks favorite meal?  

Sharks have actually always been around Cape Cod and the stories abound, such as this scare reported in the Cape Codder that took place in the early 1970's when a huge great white was found dead on Corporation Beach in the town of Dennis.  Officials closed the beach wondering how many more of them might be in the bay.  The truth finally came out when a couple of fishermen were having some drinks in a local saloon and confessed that when they came across a Russian fishing fleet anchored just outside the 12-mile limit, they decided to motor out to see them.  Hanging from a gaff off the stern of the vessel was a really large, dead shark, which they decided they wanted, and negotiated a trade of a couple of watches and some cigarettes and brought it aboard their own boat.  Starting home to Plymouth across the bay, the wind came up with enough chop for them to worry that their boat might capsize with the giant shark aboard.  Reluctantly, they tossed it overboard and the carcass eventually drifted onto the beach in Dennis where it not only created a panic, but also an incredibly bad smell.  Eventually, the Harbor Master ordered it to be hauled to the dump.  

Not a shark, or a seal.

Okay, so speaking of wildlife, it's been a long time since I have discovered a new creature in my 'hood, but I got lucky and discovered what turned out to be a woodchuck at Fort Hill.  Not knowing much about them, I gave him, or her some space and sadly never did find out the answer to how much wood they could chuck.  Sorry.  You'll have to find your own and give it a try.  We also had an autumn visit from a quail, who hung around for a couple of days, and not finding what, or whom he was looking for, waddled off.  We haven't seen one of those for several years.

Perhaps he felt that he was being stalked?

The long awaited arrival of Skyler & Jackie

For the last couple of months, I've begun and ended my days looking at the above link to follow the progress of my son's friends from their home in San Francisco as they ride their motorcycles around the perimeter of the United States.  Since Cape Cod is about as perimeter as it gets, they arranged beforehand to make an overnight stop with us.  Of course, any friend of Doug's is always welcome, and it even scored us an extra visit from him so he could be here to welcome them when they arrived, too.  Although theirs was a fleeting visit, it was fun tracking them on the map and delightful to finally meet the intrepid friends.  I must confess that I'm still checking the map daily as they wind north and then west towards home.  I find it utterly amazing that the beginning of their trip took them through searing desert heat, then dodging a hurricane on the east coast, and now in Minnesota, heading into the first blizzard of the season.  What stories and GoPro films they will have of this great adventure!  

Suited up to ride off in the rain.

Visitors occasionally confide that they've always wondered what it would be like to have a B&B.  The nice thing is that they are all different depending on the type of property and the creativity and personality of the hosts.  Our Shoulder Season bookings have continued to be almost as busy as summer so far, and as I was tossing the ingredients for the egg bread that everyone loves into the bread maker, I started wondering how many loaves of bread I've made this year.  It was one of those little random thoughts that seem really important as you think of them and then quickly vanish as something else grabs your attention.  But, that something else turned out to be all the jars of homemade beach plum jelly that I purchase from my friend to go with the bread.  You see, Sue donates all the proceeds to an organization she volunteers for that gives scholarships to women all over the world.  I love being a part of that while giving our guests a taste of a local delicacy at the same time.  So yes, I counted, and for the period January 1 through the end of September, my bread maker and I made 70 loaves of bread accompanied by 70 jars of delicious Eastham Beach Plum jelly.  But that led to the realization that, in addition to my own bed, I've stripped and made up 70 beds, did about 150 loads of laundry and made countless trips to the grocery store to ensure that we offered the freshest foods for breakfasts.  Meanwhile, to go along with those 70 loaves of breads and all the rest, Ron has vacuumed and cleaned 210 rooms [3 for each suite] until they sparkle.  And, that is only the basics of what it's like to welcome guests and help them to have a great time while they're here. Please, hold your applause, there's still three more months to finish the year.  

The loaf of bread that started the numbers game.

Hurricane Dorian put a damper on the annual 3-day Eastham Windmill Weekend this year, cancelling the popular sand castle competition at the beach.  But, by the time our usual shift rolled around at the raffle ticket table on Sunday, the sun was shining, the musicians were playing, the booths were all full of information and goodies for sale, and the parade marched proudly up Route 6.  I certainly couldn't guess how many raffle tickets I've sold in the last several years, but how many times I've won something is easy - zero!  

Eastham boasts the oldest windmill on Cape Cod in our town green.

But, the best part of September was playing tourist with Doug during his visit.  Just like the thousands who came all summer long, we walked the Fort Hill trails, explored the beaches and even climbed a light house.  Sometimes you need a little reminder that there are other things to do besides chores.  

A beach 'love note' left behind.

Cape Chronicles - #12 – September, 2010

A brief, but fun visit with VA friends started the month off pleasantly.  We were happy that Ellis, former teacher-extraordinaire of my son, Doug, decided to include us in a not so on-the-way stop on their way back from Canada.  They just happened to be here on the last night that the ChandlerTravis Philharmonic were playing in Wellfleet for the season, and having had rave reviews from everyone else we introduced to his indescribable style of music, we decided to keep with tradition and let Chan help us entertain.  After treating us to a delicious dinner, they left the following morning to race Hurricane Earl to Martha’s Vineyard, to make another stop to see friends.  

September then rolled in on the back of Earl, the Hurricane.  The doomsday weather forecast caused us to hear from concerned friends and family from as far as the West Coast to see what we were doing to prepare, but as it turned out, there were bigger storms last winter than the likes of Earl.  The desperately needed rain was welcomed with a party atmosphere and one observer noted that there were more people coming over the canal to the Cape than leaving.  Of course once Earl fizzled there were accusations of over-reaction by the authorities, but we all know that the slightest change could have made the difference between a disaster and much ado about nothing.  The only intelligent thing to do is to pick up the little stuff in the yard, make sure there’s drinking water and candles and wait for whatever comes. What did come were our first honeymooners, Filipo & Chiara from Italy.  They were a little apprehensive about the forecast, but since they don’t have hurricanes in Italy, they were also a little curious.   Except for a bit of a cloudy day and a good rainy night, the weather was gorgeous and they extended their intended 3-night stay to a 4^th.  

  

With the minor inconvenience of Earl, Labor Day Weekend provided perfect weather for the final hurrah before the start of school.  Our friends in the C. T. Philharmonic drew the last spot on the calendar to close out the Monday night concerts on Eastham’s Windmill Green.  It was my first time attending one and it felt very cozy sitting on lawn chairs wrapped in a blanket under the stars with neighbors, friends and pets, listening to our favorite local boys, who also just happen to be extraordinary musicians.  It was a great close to a very busy and first exciting summer on the Cape.

Our upstairs tenant, Ginny, assured me that once Labor Day comes it’s as if someone turns a switch and the heat is gone.  I won’t say we haven’t had a few hot afternoons, but for the most part, the fight has gone out of the hottest summer on record.  It has allowed me to return to my walks on Ft. Hill, which continues to wear new costumes for each season.  The gentle lavenders, blues and pinks have mellowed into golden sprays of blossoms, bright red vines, luscious purple berries and stalks and fluffy seedpods bursting with next year’s beginnings.  There are fewer bunny picnics going on and the hawks keep a keen watch from the tops of the trees.  The red wing blackbirds with their ‘tweedle-dee’ choruses are nowhere to be seen or heard.  And, the sun is setting noticeably earlier in this third act of nature’s best play.  
        

The weekend following Labor Day is Eastham’s annual Windmill Weekend.  As with almost any other public gathering, there are the inevitable tents around Windmill Green selling mostly local arts, crafts and seafood delicacies, but the scope of this 3-day festival has a little something for everyone, including a sand castle contest and lots of prizes donated by local merchants for the very popular raffles.  Our tickets didn‘t yield any prizes, and I felt a little resentful about the 100 gallons of free oil going to someone who lived in NY, but for my money, nothing beat the parade. This was nothing like the annual Tobacco Parade that used to close Broad Street in Richmond every Fall with convertibles carrying “Princesses” from various VA localities vying to be Miss Tobacco Queen.  Let’s face it, between Women’s Lib and the American Cancer Society, this parade was doomed.  Eastham had a gleaming red, vintage fire engine with Smokey the Bear which gave way to giant military vehicles with their vintage marchers in uniform, the Coast Guard, bag pipers, girl-and-boy scout troops, flute players on unicycles, vintage cars, dogs on leashes and then came the floats.  There was the elementary school dressed as pilgrims, the middle school jazz band  (Louie Louie, of course), the high school music department, cheerleaders, various local merchants, the Library, the Elks, the Historical Society, the Lower Cape Concert Band, a drum & fife band, the Grand Marshall and Lady Liberty herself, in a flag-adorned red jeep, bringing up the rear with a sign on the back that said “Historic and Beautiful Eastham, see you next year!”  And, they will!

Always looking for good-time small venues to play, Chandler also has an arrangement with the Captain of the Viking Princess in Provincetown to play sunset cruises on the bay, and we decided to splurge a little and jump aboard for the last one of the season.  It could have been a long jump since we were just in time to watch them sailing off into the sunset.  Hoping for a miracle, Ron searched his cell phone for the number of the Captain, with whom he’d reserved a spot earlier, and made a very hopeful call.  It worked, and round about they came to pick up the two frantically waving stragglers.  Of course when you make a grand entrance, you have to be prepared to become a “remember-when joke”, but it was well worth it to be entertained as we watched the sun go down and the lights of Provincetown harbor twinkle on one by one with friends and friendly strangers. 

The following day found us at a benefit in Wellfleet, mostly to see another band that Chandler started this year called the Catbirds, whom I hadn’t had a chance to see yet.  Their gigs tend to be past my bedtime, so I took advantage of the beautiful afternoon in Wellfleet Harbor to hear them at a waking hour.  We were also surprised by a performance of The Elbows, a band that plays and acts out vintage children’s songs, and those old songs have never sounded so good or so fun.  

The Guest Report has become practically non-existent, as expected.  While the Fall will continue to be popular getaway times for some, the return to school is as if someone pulled the plug and 75% of the population returned to the other side of the bridge.  We did have one couple from NYC stop for the night on the way to seeing a friend do the last performance of a play at the W.H.A.T.  (Wellfleet Harbor Actor’s Theatre)  But, visitors are now looking for places to stay after Labor Day who don’t shut down for the winter, and it’s not uncommon to have people stop and ask to look around for future trips.   I just love it when they ask what it’s like in the Winter…don’t get me started!

I saw three wild turkeys on Cemetery Road the other crisp Fall day.  Irony? 

It’s turned into a great first consignment season, learning what will probably sell and what’s best left at the Free Shops for someone else.  I made enough to make a reasonable contribution to the monthly budget, but also had so much fun treasure hunting it should be illegal.  In acknowledgement of the success of my favorite hobby/part-time job, Ron removed the back seats in our Honda Element to make loading larger items easier. (And to save the leather from the abuse!)  Let’s see, that’s money, fun and validation!  I’m now acquainted with Lou at the Chatham free shop who does magic tricks.  There’s also a volunteer at the Dennis free shop I call The Bi-polar Lady.  One never know if she’s going to compliment us on our hats or threaten to call the police because we looked at something wrong.  My favorite new place is the Brewster free shop, where the volunteers greet you warmly when you arrive, offer you bags to carry your treasures and thank you for coming.  In the winter, they have a big fire going in a woodstove.

Every day is a new opportunity to learn something, and we mastered a big lesson in water management this summer.  Eastham doesn’t have town water, so we all have wells.  Great, no water bill you might say, but one makes up for that paying higher home insurance because there aren’t any fire hydrants.  That’s another story.  At some point this summer, our delicious, fresh water started smelling metallic and everything it touched began turning yellow.  Not a good look for guests, not to mention our new, white bathroom fixtures.  We wracked our brains, at first thinking that in Ron’s quest to make the lawn look like a golf course for visitors, we were running the well dry.  We consulted a well expert who gave us the good news:  we didn’t need a new well, we needed to have all the fancy water filtration tanks in the basement serviced.  Within days of adding the necessary salt to one of them to change the polarity, which would remove the iron, which is in great abundance here, we dodged a very watery bullet.  Perhaps next month we will learn how to use the leaf collecting attachment on the riding lawnmower.  Look out, bunnies!

My Cape Cod Chronicles are now on Facebook.  I’m not exactly sure why, but my sons assure me that this is a crucial part of being alive in 2010, so they are now there under ‘Notes’ for anyone who knows how to access my page.  One way is the direct link: http://www.facebook.com/notes.php?id=1348610239&notes_tab=app_2347471856 .  An easier way is to google facebook and search for Andrea Lea Daniels.  The Lea is critical since there apparently are hundreds of women with my name, otherwise. 

Though it’s now officially Fall, with pumpkins and mums in place, we are closing the month with the air conditioner going.  September 30^th, aside from being my sister’s birthday, is a muggy, clammy day, but big winds and tides are on the way to clear summer out and bring gorgeous Fall weather, just in time for more guests from VA.  Pam has specially ordered sweater-weather, and we are happy to oblige.   May there be frost on your pumpkin, hot cider in your mugs and clear, sunny days.    

2019 - AUGUST-Where DO All the Teaspoons Go? & THE PREQUELS #11 - August, 2010

No matter where you are, water's not far - Orleans Town Cove

Only on Cape Cod could you read this sentence in the newspaper:  "A Brown Booby hitched a ride on a Provincetown whale watch boat two different days this week."

This is a Brown Booby, just in case you were wondering.

I will never quite get used to becoming part of the sightseeing as I look up from my gardening to find cars full of people crawling slowly down the street with eyes fixed on our yard and what I'm doing. Should I at least be wearing a Welcome to Cape Cod t-shirt?  Should I give them the Cape Codder bent-arm salute? [see below] Or, is pretending not to see someone staring at you when you're covered in dirt and throwing weeds reasonable etiquette?  I'm still not sure after ten years.  One morning this month, we woke to the sight of an old, converted school bus parked on the street in front of our mailbox.  Not wanting to seem like a campground to our incoming guests for the weekend, we debated whether to call the police or the National Parks Service to assist them in finding a more appropriate resting spot.  I ultimately decided to just walk over to see what was going on and told Ron if I wasn't back in five minutes to come look for me.  It turned out to be two young men on a camping adventure from upstate New York, and when their camper overheated, they stopped and walked to the nearest gas station to buy some coolant, which they were adding when I approached.  We had a nice chat and they were soon on their way, hopefully telling their friends at home how friendly the people on Cape Cod are.    

The Cape Cod Salute

Okay, the thing about summer traffic on Cape Cod...YES, here we go again...is not just that it's like Boston rush hour all day, especially when it's not a good beach day, but that it's predictably UN-predictable.  Vacationers have their own code of driving ethics I call "Hey, I'm not from around here" [that's the polite version] that seems to free them from employing the common sense they would hopefully use at home.  C'mon, we've all done it...you don't know where you're going and the scenery is new and enticing, maybe you've never even seen a rotary before, or your country even drives on the other side of the road, or it's just plain hot and you're tired of people honking and glaring at you and you want to find your hotel room.  We get it!  So we drive defensively in the summer when we have to go out at all, watching for the most common errors, anticipating the worst, letting people go in front of us, hoping they'll do the same for someone else.  We must not be unique for a beach resort, but it was a survival skill I had to learn when my car and I washed ashore.  

The vegetable garden is waning, but not before it provided this little green duck to the collection of oddball veggies I've grown:  

The 'cucumber duck'.

With immigrants becoming a major part of current news, I thought I would share a little Cape Cod immigrant history that I just read about in the Cape Codder, written by Don Wilding.  Our nation tends to forget that just because a ship full of pilgrims arrived on Cape Cod 400 years ago and formed a settlement in Plymouth, that to the native tribes already here those Mayflower pilgrims were considered unwelcome immigrants.  But, they weren't even the first ones.  

Many writings tell of visits from Norsemen over 1000 years ago, such as in 1004, when Thorvald Eriksson was stranded at Provincetown, although he referred to it as 'Checquocket'.  There are also tales of Viking visits to our town of Eastham, which they called 'Wonderstrand'. There is evidence of Portuguese fishermen landing on the Outer Cape a couple of hundred years before the Pilgrims.  Italian explorer Giovanni da Verrazzano is often credited with discovering Cape Cod Bay near the end of the 15th century.  Bartholomew Gosnold is given credit for coining the name ' Cape Cod' during his voyages in 1602 and research shows that before Gosnold the name was 'Cabo de Baxos', which is Castilian Spanish for 'Cape of the Shoals'.  

A local historian, Perry Strassburger, was quoted in 1948 as saying, "I offered a 16-pound ham to anyone who could lead me to a New England authentic Norse relic.  No one claimed the ham, so my family and I ate it."  

It must be very difficult to be an explorer these days.  It seems all the good spots have already been claimed and named, and there still doesn't seem to be much mutual respect for either the people who got there first or the ones seeking a better life.     

It's little surprises like these that make up for all the petty annoyances.  

Cape Chronicles #11 – August, 2010
Halfway through High Season

An early-August Canadian high pressure system brought some relief to much of the nation, including the Cape, knocking temperatures back to what used to be considered balmy.  While I still favor the crisp, dry air I’ve grown so fond of, our B&B guests continually write in our guest books about the perfect beach weather they’ve come here to enjoy.   Having reached the mid-point of high season, the Cape is at full capacity and we are turning away weekend weather-watchers who hope to book at the last minute.   Had we been able to purchase our home a summer earlier, we might have suffered through a chilly, rainy summer with fewer bookings, so we celebrate our timing and keep the grumbling about heat and traffic to a bare minimum. 

The Guest Report:
On a happy note this month is the arrival of both of our sons for a visit.  They’re probably the only visitors we have who come just to see us and not Cape Cod.  We enjoyed dinner and mini-golf at Arnold's and the visits were all too quick for us, as are all treasured times.
   

As one travels around here, it’s impossible not to notice that 9 out of 10 people are wearing something pertaining either to Cape Cod or the Red Sox.   And, it’s not just tourists.  Locals also sport the T-shirts, caps, hoodies, etc. that proclaim their approval of where they are.   You can tell locals by the more specific logos of the local establishments they patronize, i.e. Mid-Cape Hardware and Ron’s personal favorite, Fisherman’s Supply t-shirts (In Cod we Trust).  Regardless of the variety of the uniform, it seems to say, “We’re here by choice and really happy about it”.

Our August Eastham Chamber of Commerce meeting was hosted by Nauset Kennels and Ben & Jerry’s, a combo we couldn’t resist attending—animals and ice cream.  It’s always interesting to meet business owners, compare notes and catch up on seasonal gossip. 

It had to happen sooner or later, and we had our first disgruntled guests this month, although through no fault of our own.   They were told, by our rental agents that we were right off of a main road, but after checking in, from NYC, no less, they said they couldn’t stand all the road noise.   After 2 days, they relocated themselves to what they hoped would be a quieter retreat from the New York hustle-bustle that had them so frazzled.  Before them, a couple from CT enjoyed a fabulous week in the same unit.   Richard, a retired engineer, said he was in heaven just relaxing while Delores attended one of the conference classes. 

A mom and 16 year-old daughter from the Boston area, enjoyed their 1^st trip to the Cape to visit with friends.  I particularly appreciated their testimonial on our website, in which they described us as friendly, helpful, but unobtrusive.  It reassured me that we had found a good balance.

A couple from New Hampshire followed them with an adorable 1 year old with an irresistible, toothless grin.   We enjoyed watching him toddle around in the front yard while Dad took pictures.     

In a very labor-intensive weekend for us, we then broke most innkeeper rules and agreed to rent to a couple for a single night.   It was her first trip to the Cape and they thoroughly enjoyed the getaway.   With a little extra work for us this year, we hope these favors will pay off in the future with repeat visits.

A couple from Western MA brought their bicycles and kayaks and made the most of a weekend visiting friends in Truro and getting more exercise in 2 days than I probably have all year.  Their friends in Truro convinced them that winter was a lovely time to visit, and when I showed them the gas fireplace in the Cottage, they seemed to agree that it would be a great idea.

A couple from Philadelphia came for a weekend to attend a wedding of friends in Provincetown.  We didn’t see much of them, but they wrote that they had a great time.

Another couple came to attend one of the conferences and relax.  They borrowed our bikes and also took advantage of the walking trails in Fort Hill.

A single man from Silver Springs, MD, who also came for a conference spent a day in Nantucket visiting a museum named for one of his ancestors, and went whale watching another afternoon.   An avid gardener, he was thrilled with the variety of landscaping and the birds and butterflies it attracts. 

Just as we thought our Studio was going to be vacant for one of the nicest weekends all summer, we got a knock on the door at 8:30 p.m. from a couple from Montreal who saw our Vacancy sign.  With the help of our trusty English-to-French translator, we negotiated past the ‘no pet’ policy to make an exception for their little dog, Mineaux, and again achieved full house.  They spent the next day and well into the night in Provincetown, getting sunburned and enjoying the sights.   They made an excellent choice, as P’town is very dog-friendly, and I’m sure Mineaux made many new friends.  Sadly, he left his footprints behind on the rug which would not come out, and that is the last time we'll break our own no pets policy.

A woman from Winston-Salem, NC made a late decision to attend a conference and got lucky finding room with us.   A friend from Albany joined her for a couple of days.

Our last guest in August, was our 'phantom guest'.  We never actually saw her.  Her parents, who were staying down the street at the very upscale Fort Hill B&B, paid for their daughter’s 2-night stay in our Cottage and picked up the keys.  I’m sure they spent most of their time out together and we only hope she enjoyed her room.  
  

The Wildlife Report:

Ron’s newest ‘pet’ is Eric the Red, a tiny, very hyperactive, red squirrel.  We actually caught him in the Have-A-Heart trap once, but Ron released him because he has a notion that red squirrels will keep the gray ones away.   I don’t know if that’s true since we haven’t seen any grays in awhile anyway, but he’s certainly a lively addition to the outdoor menagerie.   The hummingbirds continue to call us their summer home, which is quite a compliment since many people say they never see them anymore.   A new mosquito magnet is keeping the bugs at bay.  And, the new flower garden I’m cultivating has been host to some tiny frogs who leap out of the way as I weed.

  

The Garden Report:

We were sitting on our back porch with our friend, Ray, when squinting at the tall trees across the street he announced that they were starting to turn color.  I thought he was surely mistaken, but as I drove down Route 28 to Chatham the next day, I saw 2 maples that had not only started, but were mostly a rich, golden-orange color.   At the post office, I overheard a conversation about whether it was going to be a warm Fall, or a cold one.  Though we are still mid-summer, there is a subtle shift to the inevitable transition, which seems to respect the calendar more so up here. The Golden Rain Tree in the front yard, which holds the swing, is full of pale greenish-white, Asian-looking seedpods.   The tall purple plumes in the cottage courtyard have been a welcoming sentry through most of July and August.  Garden centers are having sales to move out their stock, of which I am taking advantage as I continue to build a perennial garden around the perimeter of what used to be a doggy yard.  Ron has coaxed a carpet of green grass to cover the bare patches in the middle, and by next Spring we hope to have created yet another lovely spot to enjoy. 

Consigning Women:

As promised, the tourist season has fueled a surge in buying at the consignment shops and my inventory is thankfully beginning to thin, especially on cloudy days when the shops replace the beach as entertainment.  I have learned quite a bit about what is likely to sell in the shop and what doesn’t, although it’s by no means a true science.    As a result, a friend and I held an end of season yard sale to clear out our surplus and make room for new collectibles.  With few exceptions, if it didn’t sell, it returned to the Treasure Chest Free Shop in an endless recycling loop.
  

I attended my first annual meeting of the Orleans Community Exchange, where I volunteer and consign.  There is nothing quite so entertaining as small town politics and I was not disappointed.   The purpose of the meeting was to vote on the By-Laws, which a committee had been working on all summer and to elect a new Board.  The meeting began with the Board declining to approve the submitted By-Laws, which led to an animated discussion, followed by the resignation of the entire Board, followed by an impassioned plea from one of the members to keep the goal of raising money for local scholarships in mind instead of petty personal issues.  The nominating committee then reported that nobody wished to run for next year’s Board, so nominations were taken from the floor, and a new Board was appointed anyway.   One of the members once told me that if you didn’t come to the annual meeting, you could find yourself appointed as a Board Member, and I thought she was joking.   It was an intense 2 hours which put a nearly 70 year old institution dangerously close to closing, but then rallied thanks to some cool heads and well-spoken members. 

It doesn’t take much to back traffic up, and the collision of 2 mini-vans Sunday at the corner of the next road up from us had the roads crawling along for hours.  Thankfully, I only had a few blocks to crawl, and I took the opportunity to actually see what was down each driveway; who had a water view,  a house built in the 1700’s, and garden-peeping.   The roads are so curvy, it’s impossible to see very much detail while driving, or you could easily end up off the road.  Perhaps that was the cause of this collision.  And speaking of road-running, I am proud to report that after eight months of following written instructions, I had a major breakthrough this month.  While taking the more scenic route into Chatham instead of the boring but supposedly quicker Mid-Cape highway, I suddenly felt my brain synapses firing overtime as I began to make connections between the cross streets.  I finally started connecting many dots between where I am and where I want to be and what’s in the middle.  It was a proud moment.

Once again, the season and activities are about to shift.  It still feels very much like summer, but there’s a finality in the air as schools are about to start, taking a huge part of the population off of the rotaries and back home to process their pictures and share vacation memories with their friends.  I’m looking forward to autumn surprises on the Cape and more time to explore.

Another luscious sunset at First Encounter Beach in Eastham

2019 JULY - Memories, Old & New and THE PREQUELS #10 - July 2010

July on Route 6 in Eastham

Since my vacations from Virginia were mostly to stay with a friend on Martha's Vineyard, I never had the Cape Cod attachments when I moved here that pull people back year after year to revisit their favorite places and memories.  My twelve-hour-long-enough trip would take me to Woods Hole at the southern tip of Cape Cod to catch the ferry across to Vineyard Haven on a completely different island.  So, it always interests me to hear what makes it worth travelers' while to vie with each other in traffic and in lines for 'the best fried clam strips', or a spot on the beach that their parents first brought them to, or their favorite town on the Cape, etc.  Every out-of-town car on the road represents cherished memories, or the hopes of making some new ones.  We try to keep that in mind all summer as we welcome new and returning guests.  Some of them become our cherished memories in return. 

Thank goodness for the well-used Bike Trail 
that keeps bikers from being road hazards.

July is Black Fly month here.  No, that's not another local celebration, like the Hydrangea, Turnip and Oyster Festivals.  It's just the annoying month that eggs hatch for one lunar cycle to hungrily include humans in their diet, and then - POOF! -  they're gone until the following July.  The salt marshes are wonderful breeding grounds for this vexing species.  It only took being chased out of Fort Hill once, swatting at the flies with my visor, to remember the annual date, so I got one last walk at the end of June to hold me until it was safe again.    

Somehow it doesn't seem right to complain about July's severe heat wave when the surrounding water keeps us a good 10 degrees cooler than Boston.  But, that sure didn't stop us from griping about it. As a welcome cool front finally pushed it out to sea, it griped back at us in the form of a tornado that touched down in the towns of Yarmouth and Harwich, just south of Eastham.  It's only the third one ever reported on Cape Cod, and thus became the leading story on the national news.  Some of us heard the incredibly ear-piercing Weather Alerts on cell phones for the very first time alerting us to take shelter in basements.  In some towns that proved to be a very good idea as trees and electrical wires succumbed to the winds, blocked roads and filled yards with future firewood.  Most news sources had film coverage of the roof lifting right off of a motel in Yarmouth.  The saving grace was that it was "turnover time" and most guests had already checked out, and it wasn't time for check-in's, yet.  Lucky for us, with the exception of some power outages, Eastham was spared from the worst.  Friends and neighbors spent the rest of the day checking on each other and comparing notes from town to town.  A friend in Harwich had four big tents set up with items getting ready for a big yard sale.  The good news/bad news for him was that now he doesn't have to have the sale anymore and someone may be surprised to find a lovely antique something on their lawn.  Another friend in Harwich put out a hopeful invitation on Facebook to bring saws of any kind and he would provide pizza, beer and water.  If you have a chain saw and energy, the weather event is yet another opportunity for the industrious to supplement income.   

I wish I could claim credit for this shot, but it was taken by a friend-of-a-friend over the town of Plymouth on its way to visit Cape Cod.

 Pink Bee Balm, Yellow Gaillardia and White Shasta Daisies surround the potted tomatoes cucumbers and orange nasturtium.

This is when all the hard work in the gardens really pays off as perennial after perennial takes its turn in the spotlight.  I still can't resist visits to the markdown tables at Agway, but I'm more selective now as I find out what works best. 

And you never know what surprises the garden will yield, oh my...  

Like the flowers, guests continue to come and go from all over.  So far from Memorial Day through July, we've hosted people from as close as Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania and New Hampshire.  Quebec, Canada takes the prize for farthest so far, along with California, Texas, Virginia, North Carolina and Minnesota.  Some are taking their first trip to Cape Cod, others are regular summer visitors, and we know that at least one proposal took place.  One person came to participate in a triathlon, two came for family reunions and three attended Cape Cod Summer Institute classes.  There was one birthday celebration and two anniversary celebrations.  If these rooms could only talk!

We've made it halfway through summer, and now looking back to our first one: 
Cape Chronicles #10 – July, 2010- Trade-offs

The July activity level on Cape Cod explodes with the same fervor as the Fourth of July fireworks.  Bookings increase, activities are in full swing, every shop that has plans to be open is all dusted off and fully stocked, and navigation becomes a big challenge as the roads swell with out of town traffic.  Our nod to the holiday was to watch the fireworks over Rock Harbor in Orleans.  The normally 10 minute trip took about half an hour as we passed hundreds of people parking and walking for miles.   We were not willing to brave the bugs and heat on a long walk back in the dark, and decided to keep inching along, hoping for a parking miracle.  If you believe in karma, a favor-returned presented itself in the form of one last untaken parking spot right at the entrance of the harbor parking lot.  We grabbed it, set up chairs atop the pickup bed and settled in for a spectacular display of incendiaries and humanity.  The travel time was well worth the show. 

The following morning, as I made my way to Chatham for my weekly foray to the free shops with a friend, I came to an immediate stall on the Mid-Cape.  I don’t usually use my cell phone while driving, but I felt pretty safe at 3 mph to call to let her know I’d be longer than usual.  “Oh,” she replied, “you’re in the ‘exodus’.  I should have warned you to take the back roads.”    I haven’t heard that term since Sunday School, describing the Jews leaving Egypt, but if you substituted camels for cars, it might have looked similar.  The word “trade-off” has become my summer mantra, as I’m sure it is with a large percentage of year-rounder’s who make a living based on tourism.   It’s all part of the annual cycle, just as working at a public school was for me, which is also a big part of the appeal.  There’s always an end to the season, shifting gears to a restful period & then gearing up for a fresh new beginning. 

The heat wave, which has gripped the east coast, has not spared the Cape.  While it’s true that we tend to be 10 degrees cooler than the mainland, 90 is still HOT even if it’s 100 in Boston, especially without central air conditioning.  While I am not unappreciative of being cooler than the mainland, it has been uncomfortable enough to call for an estimate.  With the current rebates and tax credits available, I can easily justify the expense when compared to the inefficient window units we’re using, and I’m taking the proactive approach before our electric bill sends us into shock.  

The early morning light and bird calls woke me before the alarm today and instead of thinking about how much central air was going to cost, I decided to slip out for a walk before the heat became oppressive.   As I entered the Fort Hill trail, I discovered July’s dirty little secret.  Nestled amongst the purple and blue sea of wildflowers and filmy, white Queen Anne’s lace were hoards of biting black flies and greenheads, locked and loaded on the first flesh to come along.   I hastily retreated, flapping my Red Sox visor furiously at them until I could get back to the road, and aborted my plan to enjoy the trails.  I’m told this is a phenomenon, which ends with the next full moon.   It didn’t seem to bother the conventions of bunnies, but I’m not willing to don a fur suit for a month.    

July guests were so plentiful and each have a story that could make an entire chronicle all by themselves:  Cathy & Martin, a couple from Boston who spend many weekends on the Cape and had seen and wondered about the big sailboat in our yard, made sure to take our card for more future visits. 

Next came Louise & Peter, avid cyclists from Ottawa, Ontario.  Louise was attending a conference, but they made plenty of time to bike and see the sights.   It’s not uncommon for them to bike 50-100 miles in a day, and I found out that it is surprisingly just as hot and humid in Ottowa. 

Then, Antonio, his Italian wife, whose name I never could ascertain & their 14-month old son, “Gulie” (whose real name is the Italian version of William), left sweltering Brooklyn, NY to hit the Cape beaches.   They’re in the States temporarily for a job, but returning soon to their home in Cuomo, Italy.  

The Houston branch of the Samson family, who came to visit their parents across the street from us were the next guests. They made good use of our croquet and boche ball sets on Don & Helen’s front lawn and their young son made it a point to share with me that “they were having a good time, and we had a pretty good motel”. 

Our second couple from Montreal, Celine & Ivan, made the trip by motorcycle.  Our conversations were limited to the few words they knew in English and the few I remembered of French, but they managed to convey how much they liked my banana bread & wrote a glowing review in our Guest Book.  We know this because the next visitors, Genevieve & Eric, were also from Montreal and they translated it for us.   They drove in just for a long weekend at the beach.

Following the Canadian invasion was a couple from Arlington, VA.  Lindsey was attending a conference, and Darryl was supposed to be “studying for a licensing exam”, but they took time to go whale watching and were rewarded with seeing 6 of them on their trip.   Lindsey was the first to try out the new hammock.

Brandon popped in for a quick weekend from Western MA to show his girlfriend, Megan, Cape Cod for her first time.  And, then came Jane from the Boston area who was actually our very first booking.  She attends the conference every year and has stayed in our Cottage before, so was thrilled that it was available again.  

Sergio also attended the conference all the way from Buenos Aires, Argentina.  We left the lights on in his room, the door unlocked, and a big welcome sign in the window so he’d know he found the right place when he finally arrived at 4 a.m.  

Meanwhile, Cathy & Martin [remember them?] decided they wanted the Studio for the last weekend in July, but there was only 1 night available, so I put them in the Cottage at the same price and knew they would be pleased.   Last night, as we made our way to the car to catch the sunset at First Encounter Beach, we smelled the delicious aroma of their steak on the grill. It was so gratifying to feel that we could play a part in their perfect weekend getaway as they escaped the hot & humid weather that still clung to the mainland and reveled in the cool, dry air that had finally returned to their new favorite spot on the Cape.  They told us that if we find anything they left behind to just keep it for them because they would definitely be back.

The Garden Report:  The tomatoes are thriving, thanks to Ray’s bunny poo.  We were advised that instead of the free mulch available at the transfer station, which can have termites and other pests, to mulch with sea grass collected from the beach at low tide.  Just as the Indians planted a fish with each stalk of corn, the nutrients from the ocean nourish the plants.  Meanwhile, the blue lace leaf hydrangeas are blooming in front, and in the back, purple plumes about 7 feet tall have been July’s big surprise.   There are green tomatoes on the vine and the butternut squash plants are taking hold.   I’m starting to pick peaches, apples, pears and plums, despite our neglect of the trees, but have been too busy to make anything out of them.

The Wildlife Report:  We noted a lone quail, who sauntered through the yard in no particular hurry.  The humming bird feeders are visited frequently by many different varieties.  Yellow finches dart between the lilac tree and the feeders.  A new family of sparrows are cheeping and sticking their open mouths out of one of the gable birdhouses, waiting impatiently for mother to come back with food.   

Our second visitors from Richmond, Judd & Brian, came despite the fact that there was “no room at the inn”, and were the first to test the basement futon.  I'm happy to report that they have declared it “very comfy & just fine”, so if any of you were waiting for someone else to rate the “free bed”, there you have it.  You won’t find this testimonial on the website, though.   Being on vacation did not stop them from working on their production of the’ Rainbow Moments’, that they syndicate to NPR stations around the country, and it was my privilege to be a volunteer reader for 2 of the segments, which will run at some undetermined time in the future.  At approximately 60 seconds each, I figure I have a good 8 more minutes of fame coming to me from somewhere.   

National Geographic is featuring the beaches in our town of Eastham in their July issue.  The season is turning into a busy one, much to the relief of the businesses after a reported cool and rainy summer last year.   

Halfway through our first summer season…