A Cape June 2014

June seems like the right time to return to a subject I've touched on before.  This is one of those times when a picture is worth a thousand words.  

This is what Cape Cod looks like on a map:  

Doesn't look like much there, does it?

O.k., now try this view:

Don't let the size fool you, there's a lot happening on this tiny strip of sand.

This is of particular importance to know if you are planning your first trip here.  All too often, we host guests who have decided to squeeze in a visit to an already packed itinerary, thinking that they can hit the high spots in a day and move on.  In fact, it's not uncommon for hopeful travelers to think they can see the Cape in an afternoon, visit Martha's Vineyard the next day and finish off a long weekend at Nantucket.  We then do our best to assess their interests so we can steer them to see as much as possible in the limited time they have planned.  For instance, do you want to go to the beach?  The Cape Cod National Seashore begins right here at Fort Hill in Eastham (where our B&B is located) and our town has one of the top 10 beaches in the country - Coast Guard Beach.  We also have First Encounter Beach on the bay side for a calmer beach experience and wonderful sunsets.  But, there are many beaches up and down the Cape that are similarly magnificent.  Eastham also has the oldest windmill on the Cape in the middle of the town green and in the summer there are frequently concerts and exhibits there.  Perhaps you have a fondness for lighthouses, that being the case, there are some close by you can climb for spectacular views, including Highland Light in Truro, which is located on a gorgeous, seaside Links golf course.   When was the last time you went to a drive-in movie?  Wellfleet has one, which is also transformed into a giant flea market during the day.  Are you a wine connoisseur?  Truro has free wine tastings at their vineyard during the summers and is previewing their new rum this year.  Are you a fine arts, antiques, thrift store or crafts junkie?  It would take many pages to list all the galleries, shows and shops that will dazzle you with unique, local art and collections in various towns.  When was the last time you treated yourself to some great, equity theatre productions?  Yes, we even have that and not nearly as expensive as Broadway.  Sailing?  Fishing?  Water Sports?  Whale Watching?  The Audubon Retreat and other nature trails?  Museums?  Cranberry bogs?  Biking on the Rail Trail?  Mouth-watering restaurants?  [We can also tell you where the great local spots to eat are with live music.]  Now, if you ran off to the Vineyard or Nantucket, you'd miss all of that and more.  The islands are really separate trips, also packed with days of exploring.  So, we understand trying to squeeze in as much as possible, but we want to help you make your drive here worth your while.  

One of the bike trail entrances in Orleans

The accolades for Eastham continue to roll in.  This month's Cape Cod Life magazine recognized our Fort Hill and Nauset Light Beach in their annual "Best Of" awards.  Fort Hill won a Gold for Picnic Spot and a Silver for Nature Area and the Fort Hill Trail took Silver for Walking Trails.  Nauset Light Beach won a Gold in the Beach category.

Fort Hill in the Spring

Somehow, five years have slipped by since moving to Eastham.  Memories of living elsewhere are fading and Cape Cod has become the more familiar place.  It's easy to fall into local vernacular about the latest town hall squabble or "must be summer 'cus have you seen that traffic?"  But every once in a while, a little under-the-breath remark about "wash-ashore's" is overheard and I'm reminded that there is a unique hierarchy here.  It doesn't have anything to do with wealth or social standing.  It's purely whether one was born here, (which makes one a "sandkicker"), or not.  That, in itself, doesn't really entitle one to anything more than the final word in a conversation, but it's saved for when one has nothing more to add to a discussion and needs a little punctuation.  ("Aw, he's just a wash-ashore.")    

Hemenway Landing

Speaking of the traffic, there is no hierarchy and only one rule of thumb to know about getting around in a resort town in the summer.  Chances are good that the cars surrounding you are not from around here, and are too overwhelmed looking at the scenery, or finding someplace they've never been before to observe safe driving rules.  That's just the way it is.  We've all been tourists in a strange place before and thoroughly annoyed the locals with our vacation antics.  So, relax and expect the unexpected.

Look what's new!

New stores in town are always an exciting development and Orleans has really hit the jackpot with a new one called Wicked Thrift.  Not only can one find wonderful used men's and woman's clothing and accessories, but you can actually trade in your own things for store credit or cash back.  The emphasis is on high-quality, bold and unique fashion.  We New Englanders do love our thrift stores and this one is certainly welcome.      

Luckily, I've never minded doing domestic chores like laundry, of which there is an abundance running a B&B, but too much of anything can become a challenge.  One of the things that make it all worthwhile is when we see our guests enjoying themselves on the property.  All of a sudden not just Cape Cod, but our own yard that we caretake so diligently becomes part of their vacation, or celebration, or adventure.  Happy couples sitting in the tree swing, grilling in the back yard, tossing frisbees, exploring the gardens or kicking the soccer ball around makes another trip downstairs to the washer and folding yet another load of sheets and towels something I'm happy to do instead of just a chore.   

Ron gets the tougher chores

It would be very easy to slip into a summer work routine of greeting guest after guest and then spending the evening hibernating from the traffic on a comfortable couch after preparing for the next guests.  But, we try not to forget about including ourselves in our recommendations for enjoying the summer scene.  We leave the beaches for the serious beach types until sunset when the air is gentler, the crowds quieter and the sunset worth the wait.  We've got all the T-shirts we need and the frozen yogurt and cones are more affordable from the grocery store.  So what do the innkeepers do for a date?  Our last big outing was to Provincetown for John Water's book signing event and then dinner at Bubbala's overlooking the bay.  For those not familiar with his work, John Waters is an American film director, screenwriter and actor most familiarly known for his cult films like Hairspray, Pink Flamingos and Polyester.  He also has many books to his credit, including his newest that we got signed called Carsick, which chronicles his recent trip hitchhiking across the country.  He's a frequent visitor to Provincetown.

With John Waters - his signature is even messier than Ron's!

With the evenings still deliciously cool after lots of warm sun during the day, we decided to take advantage of another opportunity at the new Wellfleet restaurant, The Fleetian, formerly known as The Juice.  Our friend, Chandler Travis was just beginning his weekly outdoor music gigs there and we couldn't miss out on being serenaded at our table while munching on white clam pizza and endive salad with beets and goat cheese.  It's always nice to see what Chan's written over the winter and who will have joined him for the evening to play along.  

Another dazzling First Encounter Beach sunset

Another date took advantage of "Pay What You Want Night" for the opening night of another equity production at W.H.A.T. (Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theatre).  We try not to miss those if the arrival of our guests don't coincide.  This month's offering was I Am a Camera, a 1951 play by John Van Druten, adapted from Christopher Isherwood's novel Goodbye to Berlin, part of The Berlin Stories.  The title is a quote taken from the novel's first page:  "I am a camera with its shutter open, quite passive, recording, not thinking."  I won't say it was the best show I've seen there, but it provided a showcase for a refreshing new talent, Ruby Wolf, whom we hope to see again in future works.    

Piping for the seagulls

With June skidding to a halt and only a half hour to spare before our next guests were to arrive, I decided to take what could prove to be my last walk to Fort Hill for a month before the arrival of the biting black flies, our dirty little July secret.  I'd read about a sculpture exhibit of small carved wood figures that will have residence in the park for a year.  The wood was removed by the National Seashore crews during a recent park restoration and given to Cape students to use for a project honoring Fort Hill's natural habitat.  My half hour ran out before I reached the exhibit and I had to turn back, as will happen whenever I take my camera with me, but I was treated to a lone bagpiper playing at the top of the hill and an artist painting the Penniman House.  It was worth the trip.    

The historic Penniman House belonged to a whaling captain and boasted the first indoor bathroom in Eastham.
Tours are given by volunteers of the National Seashore Salt Pond Center

Anticipating guest arrival times is about as accurate as predicting the weather.  We're more amazed when they get here when they thought they would than when they're hours late.  Frequently enough that it's become a little joke, we'll have one couple expected early and another expected late on the same day and have them both arrive at the same time in the middle.  With so many potential bottlenecks that can be encountered on the way, we're just glad when they get here safely.  Our June guests visited from the countries of Germany and Africa, the states of Texas, New York, California, New Hampshire and Connecticut, and our Massachusetts neighbors in the towns of Boston, Bridgewater and Belmont.  

Another June guest