Friday, March 18, 2016

2016 CARPE DIEM TRIP PART IV - AMSTERDAM

March, 2016

One of the reasons operating a B&B remains interesting after almost eight years is that each new guest brings a new story.  Early March is still usually pretty quiet on Cape Cod, but we got a last minute call from a couple of avid bird watchers this month who had heard that a very rare Yellow Billed Loon had been sighted in Provincetown and they wanted to come down for the weekend to try their luck spotting it.  We were happy for them that they did manage to see the bird and that we could introduce them to the Orleans Birdwatchers General Store, a must for any serious birder.  The birds confirm that Spring is here, now.  We’ve already heard the first tweedle-scree of the Red Winged Blackbirds and Orioles have been reported for the last month near Hyannis feeders.  But wait, you were expecting a report about Amsterdam, which just happens to have a bird story in it, too.  Here we go:

PART IV-AMSTERDAM



DAY 9 – London to Amsterdam

By the time we’d rolled our luggage along the cobblestoned streets to the Underground station, got down the stairs, and made it to the mammoth London Heathrow airport, my tired giddy-up was stuck in first gear.  We slowly made it to security and our gate.  Since it was a short flight, Ron had booked us economy class this time and while we waited for our flight to be called, I wandered down to a bookstore we’d passed.  Having finished the book I’d brought with me, I was hoping to find something interesting to read on the rest of the trip.  My eyes lit on The Danish Girl and since I’d given up on seeing the movie anytime soon, it was a quick sale.  Having survived two flights without incident, I was feeling pretty calm about this third one.  It was a Friday, and the flight was packed with boisterous weekend revelers who had already started partying, which set a festive air. 

Amsterdam Central Station
From Schiphol Airport, we found the train to the Amsterdam Central Station and once again had to figure out how to get tram cards to use for the few days we would be there.  Following our Airbnb host’s good instructions, we found her apartment in the Oud West neighborhood.  Her building was across the street from a lovely park with tall trees that reached well past her balcony.  Because each floor in the building is so high, it took three long flights just to get to the second floor, definitely easier without the luggage.   This host rents her apartment out when she travels, so we knew there would be a friend waiting for us to give us keys and show us around.  Part of the deal is that we would be responsible for feeding her cat while we were there, and we were quickly introduced to Bino, a large black and white cat who was totally unfazed by our sudden appearance.    By this time, we were all pretty worn out and Doug was coming down with a cold, so we settled in for a quiet evening, admiring our beautiful and spacious Amsterdam digs and getting some much needed cat love.


DAY 10, Saturday

Ron and I had a couple of destinations in mind, but Doug, who was now in full chest cold mode, chose to take advantage of the washer and rest up a little.   Earlier, I promised you a bird story and this was the morning for it.  Bino had a little footstool that he liked to sit on next to the glass doors that looked out over the park.  Sipping our morning coffee, we noticed a lot of activity in the tall trees outside the terrace that also had Bino’s attention.  Always on the lookout for a new and unusual bird, I moved closer to see a very green one with a long tail that looked like someone’s parrot had gotten loose.  But then, it was joined by two others.  By the time I grabbed my camera, there was a whole tree full of them.  I couldn’t wait to send a shot of our exotic bird to Mike at the Orleans Bird Watchers General Store.  We watched as Bino had a little conversation with his bird buddies, who obviously visit on a regular basis.  I googled “green birds in Amsterdam” and found that these were called “Rose-ringed Parakeets”.  It’s thought that in 1976, an owner released the tropical birds and they have managed to flourish in Amsterdam’s urban Vondelpark, living in old trees with nest holes and having their food supply supplemented by park-goers and neighbors.  It was a wonderful surprise.

Bino & Friend
Our first visit was to de Poezenboot Catboat.  Ron discovered it on a previous trip, but it had been closed when we tried to visit it on our last trip.  This would be the only day it was open while we would be in Amsterdam, so it was our first stop.  It’s a floating animal sanctuary that has become a world-famous tourist attraction.  It started in 1966 when a woman named Henriette van Weelde, who was known as “the cat lady”, ran out of space for stray cats at her home and decided that if people lived in houseboats on the Singel canal, so could cats.  She first bought an old, Dutch sailing barge and had it stripped down to accommodate the cats.  When that one filled up, she bought another.  The first boat eventually had to be replaced, and luckily there were now many volunteers to help care for the cats.    In 1987, Henriette registered as a charity and created “The Cat Boat Foundation”.   It’s now a non-profit organization supported by donors.  All of the cats are given a check-up by a veterinarian, vaccinated, micro chipped and neutered, then an attempt is made to find them homes.  


Our next destination was the Riksmuseum, which we didn’t get to see on our last trip when we ran out of time, and we didn't see it this time, either.  We took so much time with the cats and finding our way there, the only time we had left was for a quick visit to the gift shop before the museum closed.   But, the neighborhoods make strolling interesting and we enjoyed the trip.  We made our way back to the apartment to get Doug and look for some dinner.   Finding one of the recommended restaurants, we learned that a reservation was needed.  So, that’s how we ended up eating dinner in a Mexican restaurant in Amsterdam.  It was open, we were hungry and they didn’t require a reservation.  Done, and it was delicious.


DAY 11 – Sunday
Ron had only allotted three nights in Amsterdam, so we wanted to make the most of our last day.  Getting into the spirit of Amsterdam, the three of us went to the Sex Museum.  Their vast collection in every possible art form portrays the history of the act which is responsible for us all.  The emphasis is on the way things used to be, as shown by the different art and memorabilia.  Would it be presumptuous to say there was something of interest for everyone?  Okay, I’ll choose my photo carefully.

Here's a tame one.
From there we headed towards Dam Square, which is the historical center of Amsterdam and a popular tourist spot.  On one side there is the massive Royal Palace, which once served as the City Hall.  On our first trip to Amsterdam in 2012, we just happened to arrive on the day after Queen’s Day, “Koninginnedag”, which celebrates the queen’s birthday, and the square was full of carnival rides and the streets littered with cheap orange wigs and fast food remnants.  Queen Beatrix was a real party-girl, but it was all cleaned up by the next day.  She has since abdicated the throne on her 75th birthday to her oldest son, Willem Alexander, who became the King of the Netherlands.  There was no party this day, but there are always horse-drawn carriages and lots going on.  In the center is a National Monument, which memorializes the victims of World War II, and it’s a popular meeting place to see and be seen.   Opposite the palace is the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, where we’d stayed on our last trip.  It is certainly posh and in a great location, but we found it a little generic for our tastes and wanted to find something less grand and more colorful.  Catty-corner to the hotel was my favorite souvenir shop, and the boys indulged me while I found some small items to remind me of our time in Amsterdam.


Dam Square
It was too early for dinner, but time to do something more restful, and we took the tram back to the docks where we could take a canal boat tour.  Having enjoyed boat tours previously on the Thames River in London and on the Seine River in Paris, this was one we wanted to add to our list.  We set out in the late afternoon on the guided tour, passing houseboats where people lived and waved to us as we passed.  The tour guide pointed out various sites of interest, such as the Anne Frank house and Delft Museum, which we’d visited on the last trip, and the trio of leaning houses, which really had no place to fall, but were so old, they had settled in this way.   With lights gradually turning on as dusk fell, our tour came to an end and we were ready to move on to the last destination on our list for the day.


The Leaning Houses

A visit to Amsterdam is not complete without an evening walk through the Red Light District.  For those who are inclined, prostitution is legal and this is the place to find whatever you’re looking for displayed seductively behind windows.  But, many people come to this area because it is known to be a very safe place to walk and visit bistros, bars and shops.  The night lights on the canals are breathtaking and every night’s a big party.   We found a place to eat, made a quick cookie run at the Albert Henjk neighborhood grocery and turned in to rest up for the next leg of our trip.   


Red Light District
Next stop, Paris.  Here's your teaser:

Click on:  https://youtu.be/CboBqfSK3s4






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