A Cape September 2014

Eastham windmill

The beginning of September is a peculiar time of year, not really Summer anymore, but not much like Fall, either.  Baseball season isn't over yet, but football has begun.  Our Patriots flag has replaced the seashell flag.  I suppose there isn't much chance of needing the Red Sox mini-flag up any longer this year. The Cape is still a big tourist destination in the Fall, but once the yellow school buses start their parade down the highway, the roads and store aisles are much more manageable.  The post-Labor Day vacationers tend to take things a little slower, perhaps because the kids are grown and not clamoring for ice cream in the back seat.  The sunset is much earlier, but we still have awhile before Eastern Standard Time plunges us into inky blackness with just the occasional bobbing headlights coming up the road.  I tend to enjoy Cape Cod in reverse, staying focused on being a busy innkeeper during the summer and avoiding the crowds, bugs and heat.  But, let the temperatures and the traffic drop off and I'm immediately on vacation in my own neighborhood.  All summer long I've heard guests tell me about the deer they saw while taking early morning walks in Fort Hill, and I smile and nod, agreeing how lucky we are to be so close.  "One of these days", I joke, "I'm going to get out of the house early enough to see them for myself."  

I DID IT!  This could be habit-forming.

I've often praised Fort Hill as one of the places not to be missed on Cape Cod and I never forget how fortunate we are to live within a short stroll.  If ever there was a portal to another world, the short walk from busy Route 6 to the top of the Fort Hill lookout over salt marshes and ocean, and the wooded paths populated with cautiously curious wildlife must qualify as one.  Leaving the busy hum of humanity for the soft rustle of ocean breezes through fields of wildflowers is very much like stepping from one world into another.  In our B&B rooms, we offer all sorts of reading material about the area and I recently took the time, while sorting through and updating to read some history about my Fort Hill neighborhood that reminded me to be doubly grateful to learn about its close call:

Perhaps the most dramatic story coming out of the birth of the national seashore was the last-minute rescue of Fort Hill from developers.  The property had been subdivided by 1961, and a developer had stakes outlining house lots and a graded perimeter road.  It had sold 10 of the 33 "Fort Hill Estate" lots.  In April 1961, Senate and House subcommittee members toured the proposed Seashore one last time by helicopter and flew low over Nauset Marsh and landed at Fort Hill.  They immediately realized that Fort Hill should be in the national seashore boundary and halted further development.  The 50-acre pastoral property possesses what every historian dreams of:  multiple layers of the past - the archeological record that is part of the Nauset Archeological District, a National Historic Landmark; open fields and stone walls reminiscent of the agricultural scene; and historic homes including the Captain Edward Penniman House.  Today, Fort Hill is the most visited national seashore site after the beaches.

Here comes the parade!

September's first weekend began with the 37th annual Windmill Weekend festival, which takes many forms over two days, as you can see by the impressive schedule.  A totally volunteer-run event, this year's theme was "Winds of Change" and there is always something for everyone to enjoy.  The weather was so uncharacteristically hot and humid on Saturday, I skipped my favorite event this year, the Sand Castle Contest at First Encounter Beach, but Ron and I dug out our Staff T-shirts and manned a raffle table shift again on Sunday afternoon.  It's our favorite time because that's when the parade comes through.   Our weekend B&B guests from Ireland arrived by bus on Saturday, which dropped them off right in front of the festivities on Windmill Green.  We couldn't have provided a more exciting welcome than that if we'd tried.  

Yankee Magazine was very generous to Cape Cod with its many ratings of all things New England this year:

Arnolds, in our town of Eastham, made the list of 12 best Lobster Shacks in New England again, saying :  Touristy though it may seem, Arnold’s is the place to go for succulently steamed lobster on the Cape. Owner Nate Nickerson III keeps the lines moving while serving more than a thousand customers on most summer days: lobster rolls, of course, but also crab cakes topped with guacamole and summer salsa.

The Friendly Fisherman, also in Eastham made the list of 10 Best Lobster Rolls in New England, saying:   On a relatively tame stretch of U.S. Route 6 about 20 miles south of Provincetown sits the Friendly Fisherman, a quaint seafood market with a tree-shaded seafood shack attached to it. This place serves up an honest, genuine cold lobster roll with five ounces of meat, a touch of mayo, a crispy leaf of lettuce, and a mightily burdened split-top, buttered, toasted hot dog bun.  Big chunks of claw meat always appear on top of the roll for presentation’s sake—and what a presentation it is. Cold rolls only are served here; butter may be mixed in, upon request. 

Cobie's, in the town of Brewster, made the list of 10 Best Clam Shacks in New England, saying:  In the tony Cape Cod town of Brewster, there are several fine clam shacks, and Cobie’s is at the top of that list. Housed in a tastefully whitewashed shack at a bend in Route 6A, this place has heavenly fried clams, juicy burgers, thick milk shakes, and a great cold lobster roll made with knuckle meat only. The ice cream stand, with more than 30 flavors of hard and soft ice cream, makes for a great dessert or mid-afternoon snack spot.

Seals off Chatham

The articles, A New England 101 and 10 Best Summer Road Trips in New England praised the drive from the town of Sandwich down "The Kings Old Highway" (Route 6A) all the way north.  Special mention also went to the seals off of the town of Chatham and Monomoy Island, designated in 1970 as a federal wildlife refuge.  [Remember, where there are seals, there are sharks looking for dinner.]  Also mentioned was the Wellfleet Drive-in, in the town just north of Eastham, the Cape Cod Canal' 100th year and the promise of great shopping and antiquing in every town. 

Thanks, Yankee Magazine!

Happy 100th Birthday to the Cape Cod Canal!

Whether by car, boat or plane, in order to reach Cape Cod from all points west, the only way in crosses the Cape Cod Canal, but this was not always so.  Here are some fun facts about the Cape's newest centenarian: 

1623 -  Myles Standish first proposed separating the Cape from the mainland for safer more efficient travel.

1914 - It took 291 years until the canal finally opened

$11,990,000  was the cost and 20,000,000 cubic yards of earth were removed 

1,750 shipwrecks while sailing around the Cape in the 50 years before the canal opened;

   600 people drowned in those shipwrecks

14,000 boats now pass through every year

100x25 feet  -the canal's original width and depth was too narrow and shallow for

many ships to pass through

700 jobs - were created during the Great Depression for further construction and improvements

$21 million - spent between 1935 and 1940 to widen and deepen the canal

So, think about all of that next time you cross the bridge and give a tip of the hat to this amazing undertaking.

USA Today also gave us a nod when they included Nauset Light Beach in Eastham as one of the 10 Uncrowded Atlantic Beaches:  "Compared to much of the East Coast, any of Cape Cod's beaches seem quiet and uncrowded, but if you venture into the Cape Cod National Sea Shore, you'll find some of the best.  The broad, sandy Nauset Light Beach is accessible via a steep staircase winding down the cliffs from the parking lot.  With lifeguards on duty, showers and changing rooms, this beach blends isolation and convenience seamlessly."

We often joke with our guests that one has to have a "beach plum connection" on the Cape to be able to provide the little jars of beach plum jelly that we have in our B&B rooms.  It's only partially a joke because they are such a sought after commodity here that pickers never reveal where they've found their stash.  The tart little berries are only ready to pick in the month of August and some years the quantities are better than others.  The lady who makes our jelly does it for a philanthropic organization that provides scholarships for women all over the world.  When one of the jelly makers has a large order and not enough processed juice to fill it, the call goes out to see who still has some in their freezer.  The Cape Codder weekly featured an article this month on the delectable beach plum and I learned that people also use them to make beach plum brandy, beach plum barbeque sauce, and beach plum marinade for meat.  Hummingbirds and orioles also love them.  It's probably for the best that I haven't yet learned to identify the bushes because I'd probably be braving the brambles and poison ivy, too.  Best to leave that to the experts.  Anyway, there's a lot of other things to do here in the Fall.  

   October 3 – November 1 across Cape Cod and the Islands

Fall for the Arts is a family-friendly month-long celebration that showcases local art and culture.  Events include:  live performances by local musicians; open houses at theaters, museums and historical sites; readings and lectures; art activities for children; guided art and heritage walks; plein air painters; special art exhibits; and much more! 

All Fall for the Arts events listings will be available at artscapecod.org


My raised bed garden taught me a lot this summer.  Mostly, I learned what not to grow, i.e. broccoli, brussels sprouts, squash or swiss chard.  That left tomatoes and cucumbers as my only successes, but just barely.  The second planting of chard actually did well, but I'm pretty sure the deer made short work of it because this year's resident wild bunny couldn't reach that high.  And, speaking of the food chain, we've been getting daily visits from a falcon, which loudly sets off the small birds who nest in the honeysuckle by the porch and sends Bunny cowering in his favorite hiding place within the large hostas.  Being at the top of the food chain [so far], it's easy to forget the harsh laws of nature and want to interfere.  Perhaps my finger-shaking at the hawk bought another day for some of our yard critters, but tomorrow's a new day.  And, speaking of critters, and particularly the toothy ones who also enjoy summering on Cape Cod, I leave you for now with these statistics:

       

A Cape August 2014

Summer colors at the shore

Some of our guests have entertained the idea of owning a B&B and are eager to ask us questions about what it’s like.  We tell them it’s wonderful for so many reasons.  We get to live in and share our favorite place with others, meet interesting people from all over the world and yes, be our own bosses.  But, we are quick to point out that our B&B is a hybrid, in that the rooms are adjacent to our home, but not part of our living space.  And, because each room has its own private entrance, bathroom and kitchen space, we are able to stock the kitchen with breakfast choices in lieu of cooking and serving breakfast at our table.  It’s a much more private and convenient experience for both hosts and guests.  There are days when all we really need to do is remove the trash and do a quick check for food and towels that need replenishing.  The rest of the day is our own. 

But then, there are days, like July 27^th when hosting is an all day affair.

A Day in the Life of a B&B in High Season

Our morning dawned with guests due to depart from both the Studio and Cottage and new guests to arrive later in the day for both.  While Ron made our breakfast, I gathered sheets and towels and trash from the Studio and got the first load of laundry going.  The many empty bird feeders got attended to next.  Over Ron's lattes, fresh, juiced carrots and homemade toast and jam, we took some quiet moments to watch the birds at the window feeders, let our cats, Bob & Tom, update us about their latest nocturnal adventures and prioritize our day.

 

Another trip to the basement got the first load into the dryer and the second one started, then back to the Studio to clear the kitchen and bathroom of used items and restock with fresh.  This includes a quick check for food allergy information supplied by guests because it’s not at all uncommon to host people who can’t eat bread, dairy, or certain fruits.  I’d done my shopping the day before since I knew the timing would be tight so I was ready to sort out who needed what.  This week, both guests were traveling with a child, so in addition to putting fresh sheets on the bed, the futons needed to be opened and made. 

Now that everything was restocked and there were fresh sheets and towels, Ron was ready to do the vacuuming and heavy cleaning.  While he was doing his part in the Studio, I repeated the process in the Cottage and kept the laundry rhythm going in the basement. 

By this time, the trash and recycling bags were stacking up so we took a break to get to the transfer station (our fancy name for the dump) before it closed, then finished the restocking and cleaning in the Cottage.  Luckily, our guests that day were expected at 3 p.m. and 9 p.m., but sometimes they are both here as early as 2 p.m. and it’s a race to the finish to be ready.

After the Cottage is shipshape there was an October reservation request waiting on the computer, as well as, a reminder to review the last Airbnb guests.  

 

Now it was time to meet and greet our first guests, explaining how to adjust the room temperature and operate the cable TV remote, what’s for breakfast, where the beaches and stores are, answering questions and making suggestions. 

After a last trip to the basement for laundry, we took advantage of the next couple of hours to leave the car at the Honda dealer for an early morning appointment and have some dinner.  And then we got lucky.  Our expected 9 p.m. guests called to say they'd be here by 8:30.  [It’s not unusual for a 9 p.m. ETA to turn into midnight, so this was good.] 

At 8:30 they called again to announce their arrival.  We looked in the back driveway, but no one was there.  It’s also not unusual for guests to end up on the wrong side of the house, so we checked the front driveway.  Still no one.  We called back and found they were at the wrong address a few miles north, so Ron guided them back in and we repeated the meet and greet. 

There was just enough time for a fro-yo cone and a quick show on t.v. with the cats and we were ready to read ourselves to sleep. 

The next morning, our friend, Ray, found us on the couch with the cats and our tray of carrot juice, lattes and homemade toast and said, “You guys really got the life.  Look at-cha, you never do nuthin’.”  We just smiled and asked if he wanted his latte hot or cold.
  

Step this way to the beginning of the National Seashore

July tourists rush in like a stampede of buffalos, anxious to reach their favorite beach and clam shack before anyone else.  August has a more settled-in feel to it.  By then, we've all resigned ourselves and adjusted to the erratic driving, relaxing as much as possible into the kamikaze car ballet.  We pause tolerantly for families on bikes crossing the road like ducklings.  We're pleased for another good year of tourism, but count the days until Labor Day restores us to a more peaceful state, one without sirens and flashing lights that result from rogue driving misjudgements.  I even dodged an ambulance and a team of EMT's toting medical kits and a stretcher as I exited the Stop and Shop this month.  I was listening to a local radio commentator on the way home that day who was lamenting that with the new airline restrictions on the size and number of bags one could take, it was a shame that there didn't seem to be room enought to pack ones manners anymore.  He also quoted a poll that cited Americans as the #1 rudest tourists in the world.  Well, that's embarrassing.  

Trash irony on the front bank

We all have our favorite post-season stories to share, such as one of our guests who turned the heat on to 75 while the air conditioner fought to cool the room down as she spent the day at the beach.  Or, the day I stopped at CVS to pick up a prescription, but realized I'd left my wallet in the car.  As I retraced my steps  by an open van door, a little boy with pants down sent a stream in front of my feet, just like the little cherub garden fountains, only this was not water and we weren't in a garden.  His mother just shrugged as I changed my route to avoid the yellow fountain splatting on the hot asphalt.  But, I think my winner is the day I had almost finished my long shopping list, but couldn't get my cart down the gridlocked produce aisle, so I parked it at the front of the store.  After navigating to the carrots and back, I began unloading my basket at the checkout.  Mid-way through, I noticed things that were definitely not my choices on top of ones that were.  Then, I noticed that many of my items had been removed.  Much to the displeasure of the cashier, the people behind me and myself, the order had to be voided, the groceries removed from the bags, and I had to start shopping all over again.  Reviews have been all over the place, stating that the same rooms were either super clean and quiet or, too noisy and dirty.  In another month or two, we will laugh about these things.

Thanks for the litter?  I was hoping for a check from Publishers Clearing House.

By August, the brilliance of July gardens are starting to wane and some deadheading is in order to coax the last bit of color.  By this time, the hibiscus and false sunflowers are taller than me and getting ready for their big finish.  I'm certainly noticing that the sunsets are coming earlier.  Our summers may be shorter here, but that only makes our gardeners more serious and creative.

My friend, Laurie makes beautiful rock gardens in North Eastham

This is "Pot Man", made by my friend, Anna. 

Best plant I ever found on the off-season dollar table!

Artists have flocked to the Cape for centuries to capture natural beauty in many different mediums, but one I've come to enjoy is the variety of humans in beachwear.  As Paul McCartney referred to the aging body in his song "Vintage Clothes", we get to see it all in the summertime.  For people like myself with curly hair, ocean breezes give us that finger in the socket look.  Neon colored spandex fairly shouts to look at endless varieties of shapes.  Wrinkled legs like the sand-ridged beaches at low-tide and a kaleidoscope of veins like July 4th fireworks shuffle happily along in flip flops, vanity be damned.  Even shiny, stainless steel legs feel free to take their place in shorts since the wars in the Middle East have caused so many of them.  I love the freedom we all feel to let it all hang out at the beach. 

Our other August entertainment was provided by our town's free Monday concerts.  This month we enjoyed performances by some of our favorite local musicians.  First came Sarah Swain and the Oh-Boys! for a beautiful, crisp evening under blue skies.  

    Sarah:  http://capecodwave.com/sarah-swain-and-the-oh-boys-in-hyannis-video/

Another Monday, we filled a picnic basket and relaxed to the Kami Lyle Trio with my visiting sisters and nieces.  

     Kami:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcJBG4WaUqA

As was the case last year, the big finish for the Summer of 2014 was provided by our Eastham friend and neighbor,  Chandler Travis and his wicked-talented Philharmonic band.  I've already given you many clips of the versatile and insanely talented (take that as you will) Chan, as he plays everywhere, all the time and he's a Cape favorite.  One couldn't help noticing that it was dark by the last song at 8 p.m. 

We were also included in our friend, Ray's family cookout, getting to enjoy one of Anna's sumptuous dinners while catching up with their children visiting from Germany and Hawaii.  Since Ron fondly calls Ray his "brother from another mother", his kids good-naturedly call him Uncle Ronnie and play along.

Not in the least was the second Supermoon of the summer, and attendance at the top of Fort Hill was no less than last month's.  There won't be another for quite a long time.  

And, squeezing in at the last of the month was another "Pay What You Want" night at the W.H.A.T. featuring the Tennessee Williams play, Period of Adjustment.  Although it was extremely well done, I think last month's Fabulous Lipitones was such a hard act to follow that it should have been held for the last.  

August 14, 2014 Supermoon

 We always try to make our guests feel like they're at their home away from home, but we actually did host a couple from England this month who were in between homes, having already sold theirs, and were in the process of bidding on a new one.  Our Cottage literally became their temporary home as we shared their progress each day in acquiring a new nest transcontinentally, depending on our computer and phone.  It was our very good fortune that this necessity provided the opportunity to enjoy the company of some very kindred spirits, with whom we hope to keep in touch.  They were the perfect antidote for some less than wonderful experiences this summer.  And, thank you, Hamish, for my favorite new word, "tiggity-boo", as could be used as follows:  Autumn is just around the corner and everything will be just tiggity-boo.

Hamish enjoying Ron's Harley, and his wife, the lovely Corinne

And, in a summer of "firsts", our last guests of the month, after waiting all year to return to the Cottage, and then until the very end of the summer season, were apparently so excited about their trip, they arrived a day earlier than they had booked.  I knew it was pointless to try to find them other accommodations for the night since I had been turning away desperate people all week for Labor Day weekend.  There was nothing else to do but welcome them to the basement family-only futon and suggest they pretend they were in college again.  They were actually quite grateful and most likely even more grateful when the Cottage was all ready for them the next day.  Our other guests this month visited from Germany, Vermont, California, New York and Massachusetts.  We hope everyone took back fond memories of the summer of 2014.   

 

A Cape July 2014

Happy belated 4th!

It was a dark and stormy Fourth of July...courtesy of a little tropical depression which turned into ARTHUR, the first hurricane of the season.  A very dignified name, with just the right notoriety and punch for turning a dark, wet holiday weekend into fodder for commiseration and dramatic stories to be shared.  The packed parking lots smelling of ocean and the oncoming storm were full of determined people filling their carts with bags of corn on the cob, buns, chips and all sorts of picnic fare. The local fishing show on WCAI interrupted talk about flounders occasionally to update with flash flood alerts and tracking the storm's progress.   Parades in Chatham, Orleans and Wellfleet scoffed at the creeping fog and occasional sprinkles, although fireworks were postponed until the 6th for dryer weather.  Unfazed vacationers roamed the streets popping into shops and restaurants before the torrent hit.  The Orleans Community Exchange sported American flags flapping in the wind gusts and customers were greeted by the enthusiastic Agnes, a fellow volunteer. [This year, proceeds from the Exchange provided $25,000 in college scholarships for many Lower Cape high school students.]       

The magnificent, Agnes-USA STRONG!

Arthur did pack more of a punch than was anticipated, causing the power to go out all night and leaving a fair amount of debris in the yard.  But, as the last bands of rain pushed towards Newfoundland and a brilliant blue sky prevailed, it was business as usual for vacationers.  There is a certain irony that by so many flocking here to get away from city life for awhile, they bring the gridlock and kamikaze driving with them.  That's when knowing the shortcuts, or paths of least resistance help.  We are certainly not the only ones to encounter chaos.  A glitch in the British Airways' baggage system caused 700 travelers, including our guests from Germany to be without their luggage for three days.  They were real troopers, but I know that seeing their bags again was a joyous sight.

Return to calm waters after the storm -seen from Fort Hill

Although the summer solstice is in June, the July 4th weekend roars in with a real carpe diem punch.  It's best to just make necessary trips and otherwise stay out of the way, i.e. tinkering with home projects, working in the garden, reading and looking after guests.  This is not to say that we have forsaken date nights, for there is still much we don't want to miss.  Some of this month's entertainment came in the form of a long awaited visit from my cousin, Bill and his girlfriend, Diane from D.C.  We're hoping they tell the family down there what they're missing.   

Diane & my cousin, Bill enjoying some of the old family pictures.  

One of our outings was to the Provincetown Library Series of short plays where Ron had been asked to be in Rock Hudson's Wedding, playing Rock's fast-talking, sleazy agent.  It was Bill's first time seeing Ron perform, other than at the dinner table at family gatherings.  The fifteen minute dark comedy, by a local playwright was based on historical information about leading men who were secretly gay and how their careers were advanced in Hollywood.  It was fun to learn that Sarah MacDonnell, the woman playing the red-headed secretary (on the right) had two Star Trek episodes on her long resume.  

Rock Hudson's Wedding

The following night found us back in P'town at the Provincetown Theatre, where we got to watch a rough cut of the short film, Misconception, that Ron helped make back in March, based on the play he had been in over the winter.  This dark comedy was about two lesbians choosing the perfect baby donor, or so they thought, and was the big chance to see Ron running through Provincetown in the snow in cowboy boots and boxer shorts.  We then popped in to the Waydowntown Bar to catch Sarah MacDonnell's band perform a set and were surprised to find we already knew the drummer and guitarist of her band.  The arts scene on the Cape tends to be a big, talented family eager to stretch those talents and share their creativity amongst themselves. 

I received credit for Misconception's promo shot.

When we learned that Bill was not fond of seafood, we knew that a trip to our friends, Bill & Denise's restaurant, Red Pheasant was in order, along with the story about the duck entree on the menu.  When Ron was doing restoration work on their 17th century building one day, a customer walked in looking to buy gift certificates.  He related to Ron that he had dined there the night before with his group of physicians who were on the Cape for a medical conference.  These conferences are held all over the world and with each one he tries the duck in a local restaurant, but this, he proclaimed, was the best duck in the world and he proceeded to buy 50 gift certificates.  "Four ducks, please!" 

With Denise and Bill Atwood at Red Pheasant [http://www.redpheasantinn.com/]

We also didn't want to miss the play One Man, Two Guvnors at Cape Rep since we not only heard it was hilarious, but our friend Chandler Travis wrote and directed the music.  This one did not disappoint.  The quick, non-stop pace of sheer talent and comedic entertainment made for a joyous evening.   
   

One Man, Two Guvnors  By Richard Bean

Based on "The Servant of Two Masters" by Carlo Goldoni

Directed by Fred Sullivan, Jr.

Music Direction by Chandler Travis

July 12th evening entertainment was provided by another "Super Moon" and Fort Hill was packed with neighbors and tourists with their cameras ready until the mosquitoes made us their entertainment.  By then, the best of the moon rise had already been observed and we returned to our mosquito-free zone at home.  Thank you Skeeter Vac!  We forget what it's like in the real world.

July Super Moon over Fort Hill

We always try to take advantage of our local theatres' "Pay What You Want" nights, and we really struck gold with W.H.A.T.'s production of The Fabulous Lipitones.  To say that it exceeded our expectations is like saying that the duck at The Red Pheasant was o.k.  The dialogue was a chuckle a minute, the music exquisitely superb and the surprise punch that set it apart was totally unexpected.  Once again, we felt absolutely spoiled.        

For a second year, I've been given the Artist of the Month Spot at the Hope Chest Store in Orleans for a photography display.  The best compliment I could ever have received was when a friend commented that she enjoyed my sense of humor reflected in some of my pictures.  It's nice to know that the connection is made.      

Cape Codder ad bump 

Miscellaneous News from the Shore:

Eastham's Nauset Light, guiding sailors since 1838

"Ping", who was tagged last year, was the first great white shark sighting of the summer off of Nauset Beach in Orleans, just in time to share the holiday weekend.  Swimmers are reminded to swim close to shore and stay away from seals.

Provincetown reported the identification of some mysterious flotsam on the beach, or as they described it, "a strange, gelatinous chunk of bleeding marine matter".  It was identified as the liver of a basking shark about ten feet long, two to three feet wide, and powerful smelling.  It was scooped up with a loader from the highway department and buried.  Takes the appeal out of a raw bar, doesn't it?

Eastham reported some unplanned July 4th excitement when the fireworks from Rock Harbor in Orleans lit up some beach grass and cat tails on the Eastham side of the beach.  It took about 20 minutes to bring under control, but no people or property were injured.  I'm kind of glad we went to see Chandler at the Fleetian that night.

Wellfleet had their own version of fireworks when a 14" World War II ordinance was found in the sand on one of their beaches.  A bomb squad was called in to blow it up later that night when the beaches had emptied.

Chatham residents have been advised to keep small pets inside after noting an increase in the coyote population on North Beach Island.  Generally, coyotes avoid contact with humans, but see them as possible food sources.  

The National Seashore is sponsoring campfires again at Nauset Light Beach in Eastham.  Bring a blanket and bug spray for a cozy night of fun.

Joby & Luke

And, an 18 pound lobster, nicknamed 'Luke', was given a reprieve by Joby Norton, owner of Mullaney's Fish Market in Scituate.  He estimated by the size that Luke was about 75 years old and deserved to catch a ride back to his natural habitat, even though he could have sold him for $100.  The Massachusetts Lobstermen's Association claims the record for the largest lobster caught off Cape Cod in 1974, a 37.4 pounder nicknamed 'Big George'.  The average lobster weighs about 1.5 pounds.  

We're looking forward to having friends serenade us on our town green.

We were very sad to feel compelled to give our very first bad review this month to a guest who found us on Airbnb.com.  This is a wonderful company, which offers the opportunity for both host and guest reviews.  In five years and hundreds of guests from all over the world, we just couldn't overlook this poor excuse for guest etiquette, and it didn't give us any pleasure to report it.  But, for every disappointing experience, there are so many more wonderful ones, like the lady who left us a fancy bar of cranberry soap.  And, the guest who went charter fishing and shared a huge portion of striped bass with us that made a lot of people very happy.  And, the couple from New York who shared how much they loved the magnificent stars at night from the front yard swing.  The guests from Vermont who loved touring our gardens, and the ones returning to the Cape for their 50th anniversary.  And, congratulations to Dave and Rebecca the latest proposal, this one under the stars at Nauset Light Beach.  I think this makes 3 in the Studio that we know about.  They all enrich our summers.  Our July guests visited from Germany, Ontario, Quebec, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, D.C. and Virginia. 

Make way for August!  

A Cape June 2014

June seems like the right time to return to a subject I've touched on before.  This is one of those times when a picture is worth a thousand words.  

This is what Cape Cod looks like on a map:  

Doesn't look like much there, does it?

O.k., now try this view:

Don't let the size fool you, there's a lot happening on this tiny strip of sand.

This is of particular importance to know if you are planning your first trip here.  All too often, we host guests who have decided to squeeze in a visit to an already packed itinerary, thinking that they can hit the high spots in a day and move on.  In fact, it's not uncommon for hopeful travelers to think they can see the Cape in an afternoon, visit Martha's Vineyard the next day and finish off a long weekend at Nantucket.  We then do our best to assess their interests so we can steer them to see as much as possible in the limited time they have planned.  For instance, do you want to go to the beach?  The Cape Cod National Seashore begins right here at Fort Hill in Eastham (where our B&B is located) and our town has one of the top 10 beaches in the country - Coast Guard Beach.  We also have First Encounter Beach on the bay side for a calmer beach experience and wonderful sunsets.  But, there are many beaches up and down the Cape that are similarly magnificent.  Eastham also has the oldest windmill on the Cape in the middle of the town green and in the summer there are frequently concerts and exhibits there.  Perhaps you have a fondness for lighthouses, that being the case, there are some close by you can climb for spectacular views, including Highland Light in Truro, which is located on a gorgeous, seaside Links golf course.   When was the last time you went to a drive-in movie?  Wellfleet has one, which is also transformed into a giant flea market during the day.  Are you a wine connoisseur?  Truro has free wine tastings at their vineyard during the summers and is previewing their new rum this year.  Are you a fine arts, antiques, thrift store or crafts junkie?  It would take many pages to list all the galleries, shows and shops that will dazzle you with unique, local art and collections in various towns.  When was the last time you treated yourself to some great, equity theatre productions?  Yes, we even have that and not nearly as expensive as Broadway.  Sailing?  Fishing?  Water Sports?  Whale Watching?  The Audubon Retreat and other nature trails?  Museums?  Cranberry bogs?  Biking on the Rail Trail?  Mouth-watering restaurants?  [We can also tell you where the great local spots to eat are with live music.]  Now, if you ran off to the Vineyard or Nantucket, you'd miss all of that and more.  The islands are really separate trips, also packed with days of exploring.  So, we understand trying to squeeze in as much as possible, but we want to help you make your drive here worth your while.  

One of the bike trail entrances in Orleans

The accolades for Eastham continue to roll in.  This month's Cape Cod Life magazine recognized our Fort Hill and Nauset Light Beach in their annual "Best Of" awards.  Fort Hill won a Gold for Picnic Spot and a Silver for Nature Area and the Fort Hill Trail took Silver for Walking Trails.  Nauset Light Beach won a Gold in the Beach category.

Fort Hill in the Spring

Somehow, five years have slipped by since moving to Eastham.  Memories of living elsewhere are fading and Cape Cod has become the more familiar place.  It's easy to fall into local vernacular about the latest town hall squabble or "must be summer 'cus have you seen that traffic?"  But every once in a while, a little under-the-breath remark about "wash-ashore's" is overheard and I'm reminded that there is a unique hierarchy here.  It doesn't have anything to do with wealth or social standing.  It's purely whether one was born here, (which makes one a "sandkicker"), or not.  That, in itself, doesn't really entitle one to anything more than the final word in a conversation, but it's saved for when one has nothing more to add to a discussion and needs a little punctuation.  ("Aw, he's just a wash-ashore.")    

Hemenway Landing

Speaking of the traffic, there is no hierarchy and only one rule of thumb to know about getting around in a resort town in the summer.  Chances are good that the cars surrounding you are not from around here, and are too overwhelmed looking at the scenery, or finding someplace they've never been before to observe safe driving rules.  That's just the way it is.  We've all been tourists in a strange place before and thoroughly annoyed the locals with our vacation antics.  So, relax and expect the unexpected.

Look what's new!

New stores in town are always an exciting development and Orleans has really hit the jackpot with a new one called Wicked Thrift.  Not only can one find wonderful used men's and woman's clothing and accessories, but you can actually trade in your own things for store credit or cash back.  The emphasis is on high-quality, bold and unique fashion.  We New Englanders do love our thrift stores and this one is certainly welcome.      

Luckily, I've never minded doing domestic chores like laundry, of which there is an abundance running a B&B, but too much of anything can become a challenge.  One of the things that make it all worthwhile is when we see our guests enjoying themselves on the property.  All of a sudden not just Cape Cod, but our own yard that we caretake so diligently becomes part of their vacation, or celebration, or adventure.  Happy couples sitting in the tree swing, grilling in the back yard, tossing frisbees, exploring the gardens or kicking the soccer ball around makes another trip downstairs to the washer and folding yet another load of sheets and towels something I'm happy to do instead of just a chore.   

Ron gets the tougher chores

It would be very easy to slip into a summer work routine of greeting guest after guest and then spending the evening hibernating from the traffic on a comfortable couch after preparing for the next guests.  But, we try not to forget about including ourselves in our recommendations for enjoying the summer scene.  We leave the beaches for the serious beach types until sunset when the air is gentler, the crowds quieter and the sunset worth the wait.  We've got all the T-shirts we need and the frozen yogurt and cones are more affordable from the grocery store.  So what do the innkeepers do for a date?  Our last big outing was to Provincetown for John Water's book signing event and then dinner at Bubbala's overlooking the bay.  For those not familiar with his work, John Waters is an American film director, screenwriter and actor most familiarly known for his cult films like Hairspray, Pink Flamingos and Polyester.  He also has many books to his credit, including his newest that we got signed called Carsick, which chronicles his recent trip hitchhiking across the country.  He's a frequent visitor to Provincetown.

With John Waters - his signature is even messier than Ron's!

With the evenings still deliciously cool after lots of warm sun during the day, we decided to take advantage of another opportunity at the new Wellfleet restaurant, The Fleetian, formerly known as The Juice.  Our friend, Chandler Travis was just beginning his weekly outdoor music gigs there and we couldn't miss out on being serenaded at our table while munching on white clam pizza and endive salad with beets and goat cheese.  It's always nice to see what Chan's written over the winter and who will have joined him for the evening to play along.  

Another dazzling First Encounter Beach sunset

Another date took advantage of "Pay What You Want Night" for the opening night of another equity production at W.H.A.T. (Wellfleet Harbor Actors Theatre).  We try not to miss those if the arrival of our guests don't coincide.  This month's offering was I Am a Camera, a 1951 play by John Van Druten, adapted from Christopher Isherwood's novel Goodbye to Berlin, part of The Berlin Stories.  The title is a quote taken from the novel's first page:  "I am a camera with its shutter open, quite passive, recording, not thinking."  I won't say it was the best show I've seen there, but it provided a showcase for a refreshing new talent, Ruby Wolf, whom we hope to see again in future works.    

Piping for the seagulls

With June skidding to a halt and only a half hour to spare before our next guests were to arrive, I decided to take what could prove to be my last walk to Fort Hill for a month before the arrival of the biting black flies, our dirty little July secret.  I'd read about a sculpture exhibit of small carved wood figures that will have residence in the park for a year.  The wood was removed by the National Seashore crews during a recent park restoration and given to Cape students to use for a project honoring Fort Hill's natural habitat.  My half hour ran out before I reached the exhibit and I had to turn back, as will happen whenever I take my camera with me, but I was treated to a lone bagpiper playing at the top of the hill and an artist painting the Penniman House.  It was worth the trip.    

The historic Penniman House belonged to a whaling captain and boasted the first indoor bathroom in Eastham.
Tours are given by volunteers of the National Seashore Salt Pond Center

Anticipating guest arrival times is about as accurate as predicting the weather.  We're more amazed when they get here when they thought they would than when they're hours late.  Frequently enough that it's become a little joke, we'll have one couple expected early and another expected late on the same day and have them both arrive at the same time in the middle.  With so many potential bottlenecks that can be encountered on the way, we're just glad when they get here safely.  Our June guests visited from the countries of Germany and Africa, the states of Texas, New York, California, New Hampshire and Connecticut, and our Massachusetts neighbors in the towns of Boston, Bridgewater and Belmont.  

Another June guest